Areas of the island
Central east coast
The harbour, the night market, most dive centres and the late bars. Ideal if you want everything on your doorstep and do not mind music until the small hours. Rooms set back in the lanes behind the strip are noticeably quieter than those facing it.
North-east and north
From ten minutes north of the harbour the bars thin out and the beach improves. This is Turtle Point, the best snorkelling from shore, with mid-range resorts and bungalows. The far north is very quiet and has some sandy sections of track.
West and south-west
The sunset side: bigger resorts, beach clubs, swings and beanbags. The lagoon is shallow and tidal, lovely to look at but often too low for swimming. Allow 20–30 minutes on foot to the harbour, or ten by bike.
The village interior
Homestays, small guesthouses, warungs and the island’s mosques. Cheapest beds, real neighbours and the early-morning call to prayer.
Eating and drinking
The range is wide for such a small place: Indonesian warungs in the village, the night market, wood-fired pizza, vegan cafés and smart beachfront grills. Look for Lombok dishes such as ayam taliwang (fiery grilled chicken) and plecing kangkung (water spinach with chilli sambal). Seafood barbecues price by weight; ask before you choose.
A word on alcohol. Beer and sealed, branded spirits are fine. Avoid cheap free-poured cocktails and unlabelled local spirit (arak): methanol poisoning from adulterated alcohol has killed and blinded travellers in Bali, Lombok and the Gilis. If a deal looks too cheap, drink beer.
Nightlife
By local agreement the big party moves to a different bar on different nights, so the noise is concentrated rather than island-wide; ask at your accommodation which night is where. Elsewhere there are live bands, beach cinemas and quiet cocktail bars. During Ramadan the music is turned down or stops earlier out of respect for the village.
You will be offered magic mushrooms and other drugs openly. They are illegal in Indonesia, the penalties are severe, and the openness of the offer is no protection at all.
Money and connections
There are several ATMs along the east coast, but they do run out of cash or reject foreign cards, particularly at peak times — bring enough rupiah for a day or two. Larger hotels, dive centres and restaurants accept cards, often with a surcharge of around 3%. Mobile data is good; Wi-Fi is everywhere and adequate.
Water, power and waste
Fresh water is shipped or desalinated, and budget rooms often have slightly salty showers. Drink bottled or refilled water — many cafés and hotels offer cheap refills, which keeps plastic off an island that has to ship its rubbish out. Short power cuts happen.
Safety and health
- Currents between the islands are strong. Never try to swim to Gili Meno, however close it looks.
- Bicycles at night rarely have lights, and neither do horse carts. Walk on the right-hand edge and carry a torch.
- Medical care is limited to small clinics. Anything serious means a boat to Lombok and a hospital in Mataram, so travel insurance that covers evacuation is essential — and should explicitly cover diving if you plan to dive.
- Petty theft from unlocked rooms and beach bags does occur. Use the room safe.
- Earthquakes. The islands were badly shaken in August 2018. Know that the hill is the high ground; see our plain-language account in History, culture & the 2018 earthquakes.
Respect
The islanders are Muslim Sasak and Bugis families. Swimwear is for the beach; cover up in the village and in shops, and never sunbathe topless. Public drunkenness in the village lanes is not appreciated either.
Sample plans
One day
Rent a bike after breakfast and ride the loop anticlockwise, stopping to snorkel at Turtle Point while the sea is calm. Lunch on the north coast, a nap, then cycle to the south-west for sunset with Mount Agung. Dinner at the night market.
Two days
Day one as above. On day two take a morning three-island snorkelling boat to the Meno statues and the Gili Air reefs, then climb the hill in the late afternoon for the view over all three islands. Finish with a beachfront seafood barbecue.
Three or four days
Add a try-dive or two fun dives at Shark Point and Halik, then spend a slow day on Gili Meno by public boat — walk its ring path, swim at the west beach and come back on the afternoon boat. Keep one evening for a cooking class in the village.
